Simply grand. A slight haze tints quiet rivers with subtle pastel hues. Impressively vast roofs shelter prosperous Emmental farmhouses. Or a stroll through Bern along six kilometres of arcades lining the streets of the old city. Busy market stalls liven up squares, and pubs and restaurants with plenty of character serve wholesome food under ancient arched ceilings, while small theatres in cellars below the arcades offer stimulating entertainment.